Thursday, July 07, 2005

Signing off

Hello everyone. Mike here.

Well, our journey to Kazakhstan was successful, enlightening, challenging, interesting, fun, and everything in between. But all good things come to and end, and so must this blog.

Linda and I just talked about it, and we're going to close things out at this point. This will be our last entry.

A couple of months ago, Mia Bahyt Franke was still a fantasy. Now, she's a very real part of our family. Thanks to everyone who followed our journey and lended their support in any of a zillion different ways. We are richer for it.

We send our best wishes and prayers to those kindred spirits of ours who have adopted children -- especially to those in Kazakhstan now, or anxiously waiting their turn.

Contact us at mike@frankes.com or linda@frankes.com. Don't be a stranger.

Dosvidanya.

Mia is settling in


Mia is settling in
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Bacha is settling in nicely. She and Tucker are playing together more and more, and fighting less and less. Here she is, sitting on our front porch.

Friday, July 01, 2005

Welcome Home


Welcome Home
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
This is the sign that greeted us on our front door. Thanks, Mom and Dad. It's good to be home.

Kaz Card Game


Kaz Card Game
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Here's something you don't see every day -- a card game being played on the streets. I snuck this picture from behind some bushes. The way the men are squatting is very common -- everybody does it.

We made it!

Bless me, reader, for I have sinned. It's been days since my last post. In that time we've traveled halfway around the world to arrive, at long last, safely at home. I'm writing to you now from the relative comfort of the wireless network of our favorite local sandwich shop. Tucker and Mia are playing. We got here at 7 AM -- been up since about 2, as we're still adjusting to jetlag.

Our trip home was blissfully uneventful, or at least as much so as a trip like that can be. No flight delays, no problems with luggage or customs. The only thing that's gone wrong is that I personally developed pretty bad flulike symptoms. The last time I felt like this was just after we got married. No joke. It seems that once the pressure of a big event is off, my body has a way of collapsing. I'm OK now, but was pretty out of it for about 24 hours.

My parents were here when we arrived -- they stayed in our house for two days to "get it ready" for us. Really meant a lot to me that they made the drive from Jacksonville, FL to do that. We were met with bubba burgers and hot dogs, and saw all the neighbors.

Bacha woke up many times the first night, crying and afraid. One time I met her in the hallway, where she was crying and pointing at the bedroom. She must be so confused. I found a note from Linda on the bathroom mirror yesterday morning that read "We went to Wallmart. 4 AM". Bacha slept for 12 hours yesterday, though -- 'till 2 AM this morning.

Linda's brother Don and his wife Lisa are here, too, as a stopover on their trip around the east coast. They just came back with a huge haul from Wallmart -- new clothes for both kids, a tricycle for Bacha, and new Batman and Spiderman toys for Tucker.

When we left, Tucker had tears in his eyes when he said he didn't want to leave Kazakhstan. "I like this town," he said. I'm sure he's over that now, now that he's got the latest Batman accessories and some brand new light-up shoes.

Things we noticed upon coming home include the following:
- The pace of life at home is slow. Small southern town slow.
- Driving on the freeway felt like flying, since we didn't have to dodge potholes.
- At the airport in Detroit, we were shocked at the size of the Sprite we ordered for Tucker.
- There are SO many overweight, even grossly obese people here.
- Hadn't seen a black person in 7 weeks.
- Asian-looking people actually stand out now.
- The sheer joy of being able to talk to people.
- Humidity.
- Lightning bugs.
- The birds sound different.
- We're relatively anonymous again.

I do intend to continue this blog for a little while -- at least until it feels like we're all acclimated again. But since we killed our cable TV in an effort to save money and just do the right thing, we also lost our internet access, and it turns out we don't have dialup. So we'll be relying on local wireless networks for a while. So anyway, posts will be less regular. One thing I hope to post for sure is a complete photo album. We have hundreds of pictures that were never posted.

That's it for now. There are so many people without whom Linda and I could not have done what we just did. I don't know how to thank all of you. That includes people who just read our blog every day. It really meant a lot to us that people were watching our adventure unfold. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Stay tuned, at least for a little while...

Monday, June 27, 2005

New Movie -- Almaty Mountain

I just posted a fairly large movie (5 MB +) showing some of the scenery fromthe other day on the ski mountain. Check it out. Enjoy.

We are GO for takeoff

14:42 - Mike here

The internet cafe was closed yesterday, so couldn't post until today. Sorry.

Anyway, today we took care of some of the last official business of the trip: buying Mia's ticket, taking visa photos, and getting Mia's official "send-off" medical. All of this went smoothly, and we should be leaving our apartment late tomorrow night, to catch a 2:50 AM flight. We fly through Amsterdam, to Detroit, to Greenville-Spartanburg. I'll send exact details in email.

There's really not much more to say. After a short nap today (hopefully they're sleeping now), we'll take a long stroller-walk to the RamStore to get final supplies for the journey and a map of Almaty that might be suitable for framing. Maybe even a map of Kazakhstan (though I think I can find that as easily at home). We also really need to buy a trinket or two, including a decent Kazakh flag. We'll eat at the mall, too. Then we try to get to bed early, setting us up for an early nap tomorrow, because we have final business to take care of at the US Embassy tomorrow at 4 PM.

Last time we did the embassy thing, we met a friendly face behind the window. A friend of a friend of ours from San Francisco greeted us by looking at Tucker's shoes, saying "did you get those at K-mart?" Heh. Small world.

I should say that there are still a few things that could go wrong. The pictures we took today, for instance, were for Mia's visa. The pictures, Mia's passport, and some other papers will be couriered to Astana (hours away) today to processed in time for us to receive it all back tomorrow at 4 PM. It's tense, but they have the process pretty much down to an art, and we have never heard of a problem.

There's also the one final little "t" to cross regarding Mia's plane ticket, but the KLM agent here said that this should probably not even be necessary, as it should already be done. I'll be checking with Eldo to make sure things are locked in.

Keep yer fingers crossed...

Seven meals left

Sat, 26 June - Mike here.

1:21 PM

This morning we had Vitali meet us at 10 AM to drive us partway up the mountain to some little picnic areas we saw on the way up yesterday. We figured we'd walk around on the trails a bit. It was nice, though the "trails" turned out to be a few paths between the creek and the road. The creek might have actually been a small river. Not more than 30 feet wide at any point we saw, but all of it quite fast-flowing with lots of rocks. Really quite the fun kayak ride, I imagine. I wouldn't want to tackle it in an inner tube, anyway.

There were a lot of people there, mostly folks in their 60's having picnics. Half a dozen of the oldest folks were in swimsuits (very skimpy ones -- and proud of it), and were actually braving the water, which was very cold. At one point we saw on older man in a speedo doing calisthenics by repeatedly lifting a basketball-sized boulder over his head.

I was a bit disappointed in the mess. It seems that people camp all around, and the idea of "low impact camping" has not yet reached this part of the world. It's strange. I've been writing about waste and misuse, and it seems that today the tables were turned. I saw piles of vodka bottles and other garbage in firepits, scattered toilet paper "flowers" indicating roving no-pit latrines, and other man-made debris. Sure, I see this in the States, too. But I was sorry to see it at what seemed like a national park area.

Anyway, we had a nice walk. We then stopped at the "ram store" (spelled "PAMCTOP" Russian). It's a big deal here. It's a real shopping mall, with all the trimmings: several levels of shops (real shops -- not the "booths" we saw in Kokshetau), a food court complete with "American Burgers" and Pizza, rides for kids, and a skating rink. We bought 6000 Tenge worth of groceries at the grocery store. It's a wonderful place to shop for Americans coming from Kokshetau, because it's like a real grocery store -- everything is out in the open so that you can just pick it up and put it in your cart. It is such a welcome change to not have to point at what you want and ask someone to get it for you.

We just finished a frozen "Texas Style Pizza" for lunch. It was OK, though: a) I didn't know Texas was known for its pizza, and b) everything on the box except for the words "Texas Style Pizza" was in German. Also, the gas oven in our apartment has no thermostat or thermometer, so cooking anything is total guesswork. Not to mention lighting it (with a match), since there were no instructions. Hard to mess up a frozen pizza, though, so we were safe.

Linda's now putting the kids down for a nap, and I'm going to see if the internet cafe is open. Then I'm down for a nap, too.

6:43 PM

The internet cafe was not open. I even tried another one a little further up the street, but found out after sitting down at the machine that it was an internet "club", not and internet "cafe", which meant everyone was online playing games. Email nyet, google nyet.

I bought a bunch more groceries on the way home -- especially fresh vegetables for a salad tonight. Got some beets for Linda to experiment, too. She loves beets. I guess you just boil them, right?

I had a great nap, though.

I retreated to the porch for a while to read my book. It's a small porch, almost like a closet. But it's secluded enough that the kids couldn't find me for a while, and weren't allowed out there anyway. I read about seven chapters of "Life of Pi", drank mineral water, and had some awful Kazakh chocolate.

"Life of Pi", incidentally, is a book I highly recommend. You see, I believe that the people you hang around rub off on you. Whether they're enlightened or miserable, they rub off. Of course, it's therefore better to surround yourself with people who make you a better person. But it's not always possible. So, I find that if I read a book that's full of enlightened characters, whether real or not, they rub off on me, too. I see the world differently -- walk through it differently. The main character in this book is such a character. And the author (Yann Martel) writes in a very poetic, yet conversational way. And I like short chapters, since I seldom get to read for very long at a time.

We're getting ourselves together now for a stroller excursion in the big city. Who knows where we'll end up. But we need the walk. Dinner tonight will be at home, and simple.

I'm measuring the remaining length of our trip now in meals. We have three dinners, two breakfasts, and two lunches to go. Two full days and nights (as today is almost over).

Life in Almaty

Sat, 25 June - Mike here.

5:40 PM

I just got back from the internet cafe. I bought some water on the way back from the nice lady in the store downstairs, and then came in to find the rest of the family still asleep after our little excursion up the mountain. Pretty late nap, but it doesn't really matter. I'll get them up when I'm done here.

I indulged myself today in buying a pipe. I paid 10,000 Tenge for it (about $75), which is the price of a decent pipe at home. I'm not sure how really good this one is, but it was hand-carved by an artist selling various carvings in a little pull-up booth on a path at the ski resort. It's got a bull-head (nose ring and all) on the front of it, and it's made of wood. Pretty cool, I thought. Anyway, it must have come to me today because I took a break earlier today to smoke my first pipe on the trip. I don't smoke often anyway, but on vacations I indulge a little.

We think the apartment we're staying in is sometimes used by visiting (or nomadic?) Hare Krishas. First of all, the apartment, although a odd mix of decors, is partly done in straw mats and beach furniture and such. Also, there's the odd collection of clay pots, the incense in the urn in the bathroom, and the strange spices in the cupboard. It's clear that the place gets used for adopting (American) couples, too, because the kitchen is stocked with leftover peanut butter and microwave popcorn, and has a real coffee pot.

There are "porches" on the east and west end of the apartment. That's in quotes because they are really just enclosed balconies. We get morning sun on one end, and evening sun on the other. Usually a nice breeze, too, because we leave everything open (no mosquitoes here!). If you stick your head out a porch window slightly and look to the south, you are rewarded with a spectacular view of the mountains to the south -- the same ones we visited this morning. Our driver (his name is Vitali) tells us in his self-taught broken English that if you go over those mountains in one direction, you're in China. In a slightly different direction, Afghanistan. In yet another, Kyrgystan. To be honest, I don't quite understand the Afghanistan reference, but it's interesting nonetheless.

Linda and Bacha just woke up, by the way. Linda is painting Bacha's fingernails.

It's good to be in a real city right now. Anonymity comes easier. There are more weirdos walking around in general, so an American -- even with Kazakh kids -- is less of a distraction. It's nice to not be noticed as much. Even shopping in the store downstairs is easier, as the lady seems used to people who don't speak Russian (or Kazakh).

We're going out for dinner tonight. We were pointed at a restaurant a block and a half away. Apparently the menu has an English translation, which would be welcome. There's also an outside cafe that I walked by on my way to the internet cafe, and it looks well-suited (fenced outdoor area, tables that can't be broken or messed up, casual). We'll see. When Tucker gets up, we're outa here. Bacha just went in there to show him her new fingernails. I haven't heard screaming yet...

9:27 PM

We just got back from a very nice dinner at the restaurant that was recommended to us. They had an English-speaking waitress, which was the only way we would have stayed. We had nothing unusual, but the quality of everything was a step up from what we're used to. We shared two bowls of soup (borshch and salyanka), a "salad" of cut tomatoes and cucumbers, three of a meat-and-vegetable-filled pastry, and the main course, of course, shashlyk. We had lamb and chicken tonight. We asked for pork, but were told (with a smile) that it was a Muslim establishment. Oops. All in all, it was a very good meal, though not cheap (5200 Tenge). But we have tons of leftovers.

One interesting thing about the place was that there were several tables where the customers, mostly men, were catting and smoking in a lounged position. When they "sat up" to eat, it was cross-legged. The table was about 14 inches high, and they were essentially all sitting on the floor (though the platform was raised). The menu itself looked like it was in Arabic, though I'm sure it was a scripted Kazakh, which was once Arabic anyway.

A little bit about Bacha. She's very strong-willed, and has a very strong "no." It's difficult to get a reaction out of her when we tell her "no" to something, as well. I'm trying hard to solve some of that by saying "no" less. Instead of "don't do that", I try to say "do this" instead. That sort of thing. When I can manage it, it works because there's less head-butting. Even at mealtime, Linda and I are both giving up on trying too hard to make her eat what she's "supposed" to eat. We figure that as long as she's drinking milk and eating some oatmeal and yogurt, she'll live.

She and Tucker are playing together more and more. So much so that they're starting to trust each other enough to play a little rougher, which is a little unnerving. But it's a good thing.

Bacha, by the way, has tremendously good balance, and is physically very flexible. Tucker, in contrast, is always a bit wobbly, and stiff as a board. Fortunately, Tucker falls well. Bacha falls OK too, but is less happy about it. I've had good intentions of doing more stretching on my own, for myself, in the hopes that Tucker will follow suit. But I haven't been very good about it. Tucker sees stretching as a chore. It hurts him, and it's no fun. I really want to find to find a way to get him over that -- he really seems remarkably inflexible for someone his age. I'm more flexible than he is, fergoshsakes...

Saturday, June 25, 2005

King and Queen of the Mountain


King and Queen of the Mountain
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
OK, one more picture. This time of the two of them near the top of the mountain where the ski resort is outside Almaty. The mountains here are quite spectacular. We may very well go back tomorrow, this time planning on doing a little hiking around the streams and such. Maybe a picnic.

Kokshetau Airport


Kokshetau Airport
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
This is the airport in Kokshetau. There's just no way to capture the feeling, really. It feels like you're at an abandoned building from the outside. The parking lot is mostly dirt, and the pavement outside is crumbling to where the grass is starting to take over. Inside, things are nicer. I do not have the picture of the actual airplane I was hoping to get, because there just wasn't time to pause and snap one. It's quite a rush to try and get a good seat. A Kazakh lady actually spoke up for us, shouting to "let the children though!" We were very grateful.

Magic Rainbow


Magic Rainbow
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Here's one of the last pictures I took in Kokshetau. There's something magic about it, no?

We've Landed in Almaty!

4:27 PM - Mike here.

I'm writing to you from the comfort of our apartment in Almaty, though we do not have internet access here. I'm planning to transfer this text to a computer at the internet cafe once I get there in a little while.

Yes, we arrived safely, and without incident. Well, except for Mia peeing in Linda's lap during the flight, that is. No big deal -- we should have put the diaper on her before letting her fall asleep. We knew better. Anyway, they both slept most of the flight -- in our laps -- as we hoped.

Our apartment in Almaty is very nice. Very much like the apartment our friends Suzie and Geoff had when they were here -- we're having flashbacks. Two bedrooms, on the fourth floor (which really means the fifth) -- but we have an elevator.

Today, we drove up to the ski resort. Very nice, and just as we remembered it. This time, though, we actually took a ski lift up the mountain (last time the weather was nasty). All four of us. Good thing Linda didn't think about it too much before we left, as she was afraid of the ferris wheel in Kokshetau. Heh. Anyway, it was wonderful, and I can't wait to post a movie.

I'll be emailing our apartment phone number to friends and family. We will probably be online once a day, but that's not a guarantee.

Three more nights in Kazakhstan!

(BTW, the transfer to the computer at the internet cafe went well. So we should be able to write a bit more very soon).

Friday, June 24, 2005

Soon back in Almaty

Linda here...
We thought we might take a walk over to the ferris
wheel today, but no such luck. It is raining.

There was a change of plans this am for Sveta. She
called us at 10am. She is to go to Astana to pick up
another couple. Sveta and Oleg came over at 10:30 and
we settled all payments and talked about arrangements
for the flight. She left us in the capable hands of
her cousin Timor, a student whom we've met. His
English is certainly not as good as hers. I am sure
he will do fine, but it helps to know that she has
cell phone access with him.

Most of our packing is done. The kids are chasing
each other and getting along fantastically. Yea! We
have our ears ready for an upset, but none so far.

Just two hours to go before we catch our ride.

I am still feeling the wonderful effects of my massage
yesterday. Sveta called and had a massage therapist
come over to the apartment. We timed it so the kids
would be napping. Yes, this actually worked. I had a
honey massage that lasted an hour and 15 minutes. I
tried to give her 2000 tenge but she put 1000 of it
down and headed for the door. The massage cost about
$9. Oh, if only I could get these in the states.
The only disconcerting part was that she took my blood
pressure before and after. Humm. Seems like a good
idea really, but I just never had it done before.

Will write again in Almaty.
Linda

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Thursday, June 23, 2005

The Nap That Wasn't

OK, one more movie for the road... Very cute. Check it out.

Update on Itinerary

Hello.

Just a quick note to make sure we keep you as posted as possible about our itinerary. Unfortunately, there's not much to tell yet, but I want you to know what to expect.

Tomorrow, of course, we leave for Almaty. We are due to arrive around 7PM local time (same time zone as where we are now). That should put us in our apartment at maybe 9 PM, and hopefully the kids will be in bed by 10. We'll see.

With any luck, we'll have internet access in the apartment, and I'm sure we'll be online that night, at least briefly, to let you know we arrived safely and probably tell you a little about our little airplane adventure. If not, you will not hear from us until we can find an internet cafe, probably the next day. Please don't worry in the meantime, of course -- no news is good news.

Remember, we'll be in Almaty for just under a week, and we're still due to land at Greenville-Spartanburg (GSP) airport on June 29. Our flight lands at 3:36 PM, I believe. We will confirm all of this as soon as we've completed the ticket transaction for Mia, which we hope to do on Saturday (though it might have to wait until Monday).

That's all we know for now. Thanks.

-Mike

Countdown to Almaty...

10:53 AM - Mike here.

I've only got a minute or two, as Sveta will be arriving to settle up payment. The kids are "practicing packing" -- Linda's idea -- which means they're mostly arguing about who gets what, running around for some reason, or screaming for help with a zipper. Tucker is actually mostly packed -- he's an experienced traveler who knows the difference between carry-on and checked baggage and understands what it means to pack things so that they're handy on the airplane. Pretty sophisticated, actually.

We leave in about 26 hours.

Strangely enough, I'm already feeling a strange sort of nostalgia for this place. It's weird, but I'll miss Kokshetau. As is easy to do in retrospect, I will harbor fond memories...

... of dust and mud.
... of feeling cramped.
... of potholes with roads around them.
... of feeling elated when the water comes back on.
... of really awesome shishkabobs, if you can find them.
... of twice-daily walks with the family.
... of feeling like a celebrity wherever we go.
... of international soccer on TV all the time.
... of paying 50 cents for a 2-month prescription.
... of learning a language.
... of practicing humility.
... of very, very whole milk.
... of vegetables with taste.
... of more use and less waste.
... of visits to the baby house.
... of becoming a papa, again.

9:56 PM

We had dinner over at the Louca's tonight for a final send-off. Very nice. We hope to see them again in the States, as they live 20 minutes from Aunt Kathy and Uncle George on Long Island.

There may be another post before we leave tomorrow afternoon, but if not, be aware that we won't be in our apartment in Almaty until tomorrow night at around 8 PM at the earliest. Even then, we don't know what our internet situation will look like, and we won't know our phone number until then. I will email family members more details. As soon as we have our ticket for Mia paid for on Saturday, I will post details of our arrival schedule.

Wish us luck, everyone. By this time tomorrow night, we hope to be one step closer to home!

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

Stress, no stress. Stress, no stress.

3:54 PM - Mike here

Our day started at 9 AM today, as we were scheduled to be picked up by Sveta and Alexander to go buy our tickets to Almaty, and then drive to Shchuchinsk to handle all the final paperwork involving Mia's birth certificate. You see, they issue a new birth certificate stating that she was born in Shchuchinsk, to make it easier to issue the adoption decree. Just don't ask.

Anyway, we had a harrowing start. For the plane tickets, we need passports, and we couldn't find Linda's or Tucker's. After a very tense hour of turning the house upside down, Linda finally found them in her bag where they were supposed to be, except that they had fallen through a rip in the lining, and so were in a "secret pocket", as it were. Yikes. Actually, it wasn't as tense as it could have been. I actually think we were all pretty well-behaved, and should be proud of ourselves. By the way, they wouldn't even sell me tickets for the kids -- they'll be in our laps. Oi. the seats are not very big -- not even headrests.

Then, off to Shchuchinsk, where the paperwork stuff went well, even though there was a minor glitch on one of the documents in the spelling of "Naples" (Florida), where we were married. This required several extra trips to various places, but no real drama.

So now it's 4 o'clock, and the kids are in the other room not sleeping, while Linda should be starting her massage at the Zhekebatyr hotel by now.

Tucker and Mia are very cute right now. Before today, when it was time for a nap or bedtime, Linda and I would often lay between them to make sure they didn't actually touch each other (god forbid) and start a screaming match. Today, for some reason, they WANT to touch each other. It seems I have a choice at the moment of letting them enjoy each other's company, or having them catch a nap. I'm putting up a fatherly front on the naptime thing, but there's no way they're going to sleep. I'm happy. They're actually playing -- I'll take it.

Between 5:30 and 6:30 today, I expect a sumptuous meal to be delivered to us from our favorite soup kitchen. It's been ordered. Yee hah.

Tomorrow will be a day of packing. My main concerns are packing things so that we have a reasonable chance of carrying all our stuff in one trip, and to make sure we have whatever supplies we need for a smooth landing in Almaty (like food for the evening, for instance -- maybe). Definitely things like extra changes of clothes in case of accidents, plenty of water to soothe Linda's coughing throat, nosebleed supplies, etc... With any luck, the kids will sleep on the plane (they won't get a nap).

By the way, I don't know what our email situation will be until we get to Almaty. We may or may not have internet access from the apartment we'll be staying in. We'll surely have internet access from a cafe somewhere, but that may take some time to get organized. As soon as we can, we'll keep you posted, and probably send our new phone number to family members. I'll mention all this again just before we leave. We're still here for 44 hours or so...

(I can hear them talking in there... TALKING! Can you believe it?! Oohh oohh -- LAUGHTER now!)

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

Snippin' VS Snippy


Snippin' VS Snippy
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
A rare picture of Tucker and Mia in perfect harmony -- each with their own pairs of scissors and their own paper to cut. Actually, today was a day of better than average cooperation between them. It's still largely a contentious relationship though, at least on the surface.

The nose knows no's


The nose knows no's
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Ah, yes, Mia with another nose plug. This one happened during a crying fit.



Incidentally, I've formed a theory about the nose bleeds. It seems they started happening the day Linda laid claim to the inside of Bacha's nose. My theory is that Bacha started the nosebleeds as a form of rebellion. Sabotage, if you will.

Moods, Planes, and Soup

2:07 PM - Mike here again (yeah, I know -- I should get a life).

Our morning excursion today was a walk to the park. I choose the word "walk" carefully. You see, we usually alternate between taking the strollers, which give Linda and me more exercise, and not, which makes the kids work. This morning it was about walking the kids. Tucker, bless him, was very good -- and he made sure to tell us so. Bacha, on the other hand, bawled and stomped much of the way there, until I started walking Tucker along the top of a wall, at which point Bacha switched over and was very happy.

Have I mentioned Bacha's on/off switch? It's truly amazing. One second, she'll be the child from hell, or the child with parents from hell (depending on whose side you take), and then the next minute she'll be the angel-faced smiling cherub that we first fell in love with -- tears still rolling down her face, though the floodgates have been closed. It's truly amazing. Works the other direction, too, of course, which is what keeps us on our toes.

Tucker doesn't have a switch like this. Working Bacha's moods can be likened to flying a stunt plane -- very unstable, but consequently very maneuverable, at least in theory. Managing Tucker's moods, on the other hand, is more like flying a jumbo jet -- advanced planning is required and it can take miles to do a 180, but the situation is much more stable and comes with a decent autopilot.

Of course, sometimes the stunt plane flies inexplicably straight and level, while the jumbo jet has computer problems. <shrug>

So anyway, I'm sitting here writing with Bacha asleep in the other room, while Linda and Tucker are still out. Makes me a little nervous. But we agreed to split up when my hayfever started generating in me a splitting headache, and couldn't bear to go shoe shopping. Linda had had it with Bacha's morning temperament, so I took her. Poor Tucker really didn't know what he was getting into. Shoe shopping -- uhgh. I fear I might have scarred him for life. They've been gone over an hour, which seems like an eternity to me. But then, one hour shoe-shopping for Linda is like one soccer match for me -- a good example of how the observer can effect the events being observed.

Aha -- they just walked in. Linda landed two pairs of new shoes (actually, I'm very happy for her), and Tucker scored two puzzles. She tells me this was the deal they struck. No nap for Mr T. today, I guess.

Another thing about Bacha. The pupil of her right eye is rather - cat-eye shaped. I noticed it just the other day. It's hard to tell, you see, because she has dark brown eyes. But it's definitely there, and we're not sure what it means. Her medical report referred to her having recovered from what was translated as glaucoma -- which we don't believe for various reasons. But there's clearly something going on there. Her vision seems fine, including when we do little tests on the one eye in particular. Don't know -- just something we'll have to check when we get home.

Home. Turns out we have one full day left in Kokshetau. Tomorrow we travel to Shuchinsk for some final paperwork involving Mia's birth certificate, and Friday we fly to Almaty, leaving at about noon. We're starting to form an exit strategy which includes the logistics of packing, food supplies, and how the heck we're going to pack everything onto that little airplane.

This would be a good time to mention the little airplane we're going to board to fly to Almaty. If you'll recall, we didn't fly from Almaty to Kokshetau on the way out here -- we flew to Astana on a very nice airplane and drove the rest. However, we're familiar with our upcoming flying adventure, as we did it twice during our trip two years ago. Here's what the literature from our adoption agency says about the flight:

"The plane ride ... is unfortunately everything that you have heard about travel in the former Soviet Union. The plane is an older jet with seating for about 40, and then only after scrunching yourself in. It is common for people to stand on the flight. It is common and acceptable to smoke on the plane in the back, but since it is small this makes little difference to sensitive noses. There is no bathroom on the plane. You carry your own bags on board through the rear tail stairs, throwing it into a luggage area before finding a seat. The best suggestion is to find an isle seat as the plane gets cold and your leg will go numb if you keep it next to the plane walls. You will see frost start to form about halfway into your journey. With all that being said, for those feint of heart, you may want to take a pill or shot of something stronger than the mineral water they give you shortly after takeoff. Rest in the knowledge that there have been no problems with this flight in the 7 years we have been flying families there, and know that you will not likely be the first! No, you cannot take the train, sorry."

Most of this is true -- all but the bathroom thing. There does seem to be a bathroom in the back because we remember people seeming to go back and use it. As for the luggage, it's all true, and I might add that on our last trip (get this) there was actually a crate of live chicks -- yes, baby chickens -- in the luggage compartment. It was like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. Also, last time we traveled with two other couples adopting a total of three other kids, and some of them ended up sitting in the rear of the plane, where (they don't tell you this in the literature) it apparently gets pretty uncomfortably hot, despite the encroaching frost, because you're sitting near the engines. We had some poor, screaming kids last time, too (and one poor, crying mother), which didn't make matters easier. In our case I remember holding up my third ticket, which we'd bought for Tucker, when it was clear before takeoff that there was a 12-year-old girl looking for a seat. When we started to taxi and we observed that she was sitting in her mother's lap, we couldn't bear it and gave her our extra seat (Tucker was Linda's lap anyway). The girl ended up being the captain's daughter. The flight, incidentally, is about 4 hours long.

Our strategy on this flight is, first, to drink as little as possible to avoid an in-flight pee break (Mia will be wearing a diaper). I'm also preparing myself mentally to push and shove to get to the front of the line so that we can get good seats, together. Pushing and shoving is expected, apparently. This is a stressful time, as we have a lot of luggage -- more than we can really carry in one trip.

One final note... I actually did call Sveta for a soup delivery today. Turns out the kitchen is closed to the public for a private party today. Just our luck.

Monday, June 20, 2005

Nosebleed update

10:53 AM - Mike here.

Hiya. Just a quick note before we head out for our morning excursion. No nosebleed last night! Woo hoo! Also, Sveta came by today with a prescription for Mia, which she got after having spoken to the pediatrician at the baby house, who knows her history as well as anyone.

The prescription could break the bank, though. Two months worth of a steroid to strengthen her blood vessles (half a pill twice a day with food), plus a bunch of calcium pills, cost 65 Tenge (yes, that's about 50 cents).

Venicia Group


Venicia Group
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Here's our crowd. From left to right: So Jun (remember, he's from Orange County), the owner of the Venicia, Linda with Tucker, Chris with a squirming Nastya, and Inna with Bacha.

Mia at the Venicia


Mia at the Venicia
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
As I mentioned, Mia stole the show tonight. Of course, I'm biased...

Dancing at the Venicia


Dancing at the Venicia
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
This was the scene for much of the night after dinner. I don't know the songs we were dancing to, of course, but at least one of them had a lot of names of local towns and regions in it, so it was clearly a favorite.

Chrisslyk


Chrisslyk
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
This is Chris, digging into his Shashlyk. The plate in the foreground is the barbeque chicken platter. Thanks for a great dinner, and a great time, Chris.

Mia Upside Down


Mia Upside Down
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Here's Mia having a blast, just hanging upside-down from Mama's lap. Check out the look on her face -- it's the same look she gets when I tickle her. She really is just a little whacko. Incidentally, even though she hung upside down, danced like a fool all night, jumped up and down, wrestled, ran, screamed and cried, we had no nosebleeds until we got home and put her to bed. Go figure.

Venicia

11:14 PM - Mike here.

We went to dinner with Chris, So Jun, Inna, and the kids of course, to a place called the Venicia. So Jun is a friend of the owner, and he had dinner with us and treated us like family. We had a fantastic time.

Dinner consisted of barbeque chicken as good as I've ever had, plus an assortment of salads, french fries, grilled potatoes, lots of beer, and fresh veggies. Very, very nice, and with the owner being very generous, Linda and I would have only paid 2000 Tenge -- but Chris even sprung for that tonight.

At one point, the owner proudly escorted me to the "kitchen" where the chicken was being prepared (allow 40 minutes to cook). I had to duck my head several times and watch my step as we ended up out behind the restaurant, where the chicken was on a grill made of what looked like an old oil drum, cut in two pieces (one for the bottom, one for the lid). The chicken was on a bed of burning wood, and the lid of the grill was propped open with a piece of sheet metal for ventilation. Each piece of chicken itself was sliced several times, and the cuts were filled with a mix of sauce and herbs. The actual kitchen which we passed by on the way out, was a room about 12-by-12 with a counter, a sink, and a trash can. I didn't see a refrigerator, though there must have been one. Probably in the next room. it was poorly lit. No health codes here, apparently.

Music was provided by a man with a keyboard (synthesizer) and a PA system, and who had a very nice tenor singing voice. On queue from the owner after dinner, he cranked up what must be well-known favorites, because everyone was out on the dance floor. "Everyone" here included us and the other table, a group of about 12 who were there celebrating a birthday. Everyone stood in a circle, and people took turns taking the center. I noticed that men didn't necessarily dance with women. In fact, it was the owner himself who ushered So Jun and myself to the dance floor to join the group when the music started.

Bacha stole the show. She spent almost the whole time in the center of the circle, trading partners that included several people in the other group. Tucker had a blast, too, mostly chasing Nastya (Chris' daughter) around.

We finally left at about 10 (four hours after arriving). As a farewell number, the owner specially requested the Eagles' "Hotel California" for us. It was just a little surreal, with lyrics like "we are all just prisoners here, of our own device..."

It was the best time we've had since we arrived here (meeting Bacha notwithstanding, of course). I think I'll post a bunch of pictures.

Shampoo for bloodstains

Linda here...

I woke this morning to Bacha's bloodied face.
Sometime after 1am she had a nosebleed. Of course she
seems to spin during the night when she sleeps so
there was blood everywhere. We went out this morning
to find hydrogen peroxide which I had heard yesterday
was good for removing blood from clothing. We called
Sveta to help us.

We bought a small bottle of "like" hydrogen peroxide
to use on a piece of cotton for her next nosebleed,
but I wasn't so sure this was the right stuff ofr
bloodstains, so I did the most resourceful thing and
went to Google for help.

Shampoo, any old shampoo will remove bloodstains.
This we have. I spent the last 20 minutes scrubbing
shampoo on the stains with my fingernail and it looks
like all the blood is gone. Just to be safe I left
all the sheets to soak in the tub. Yea for Internet
access.

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Pea Soup

1:32 PM - Mike here.

Linda and I don't argue much. Perhaps it could be said that we "bicker" a bit -- and that's almost surely my fault. But actual raised-voice, sustained, pointed, head-to-head arguments are very, very rare. I'd say there have been about five of them in our 9 years of marriage, over who-knows-what, and they've always been short-lived.

Today, we argued about pea soup. Her argument was that we agreed to have soup every day, and I have ignored that agreement and found ways to make this molehill of a chore into Mount Everest. I concede that we haven't had soup every day, however in my defense I claim that the soup run was pre-empted both yesterday and today by other events which were not completely in my control. I don't think we've had the agreement for much longer than that.

It is true that, at best, a "soup run" consists of a pleasant 15-minute stroll down what, with a little imagination and a hint of romance, might be called a rustic, picturesque path, followed by a light 10-minute Russian lesson with a very helpful and forgiving restaurant hostess, completed by a repeat of the stroll in reverse, this time carrying four lovely clay pots of tasty, nourishing soup costing about a dollar.

At worst, the whole thing can be an exhausting 60-minute round trip including wait time, for starters. The "picturesque path" might, on some days, turn into an obstacle course of alternating dust-exhaust clouds and mud puddles in 90-degree heat, the air filled with a whiteout of poplar fluff and various species of pollen which seem specifically engineered to attack Western sinuses. Obtaining the goods might include a harrowing, confusing conversation with several people while feeling uncomfortably conspicuous and dodging the regular goings-on of men dressed in camouflage uniforms and hurried women carrying all the stuff you'd like to order but they can't slow down so you can point at it. They might not even have the soup you want; partly because they don't make it every day, and partly because when they do make it, they make it different every day. Oh, it's always good, but a bit of a grab-bag.

On some days, the family is happy with my hard-won bounty, and on some days it is met with a wall of "ni-godoos". Linda, at least, is always happy, bless her heart.

So, you see, I have to admit to being less than enthusiastic about the idea of a daily soup run, though I still maintain my innocence in the face of the accusation that I've been avoiding it.

On the other hand, it just occurred to me that a call to Sveta and an extra 200 Tenge will have it all delivered and possibly improve our marriage.

Tonight, dinner with friends. Tomorrow, I dial.

Sunday, June 19, 2005

Foliage


Foliage
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Chris's new friend So Jun informed us where the Peace Corps resource center is, just behind the Tsum store. It's called "Globus", and they have lots of English-language resources, including DVDs, videos, books, and maps. Chris and I walked back there today, though it was closed. This is just a picture of some of the interesting weeds along the way. Some of you might want to click on the image to have a closer look. (Don't worry -- we're told it's the kind you make rope out of -- though I'm not so sure).

Chris and Tucker


Chris and Tucker
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
As I mentioned in my recent post, Chris, Tucker and I (Tucker later replaced by Bacha) hung out and did the male bonding thing outside the Tsum store today. Here are Chris and Tucker. You can see the famous ferris wheel, in the middle of the main park in the background right behind Chris.

Father's Day

7:07 PM -- Father's Day. Father, here.

It's an early evening -- the kids are already in bed. We met with all the other Americans at a "childrens' restaurant" nearby at 10:30 this morning. Nice place. Essentially just a regular cafe-style restaurant with a special kids' room off the back, and a little seating area sort of guarding the door to it. Very strategic. Only problem was that we had trouble ordering until Inna showed up (I've been spelling that "Ena" -- sorry). Inna is the interpreter assigned to both the other American families at this point. She's an angel -- putting up with three families trying to order for themselves and kids, including dietary restrictions and last-minute order changes. She also is a constant companion to Nastya (Chris and Suzie's new 10-year-old daughter). This is great for Nastya, who craves someone she can talk to, and Chris, who is now playing "Mr. Mom" with Suzie at home, and shows visible signs of relief when Inna is around. Oh -- we did draw first blood with Bacha today. We learned that she might be prone to nosebleeds. She came down with one today for no apparent reason, and no pain. Plus, when we treated it in all the standard ways, she accepted treatment as if it were normal. This included having her walk around with a rolled-up piece of napkin stuck up her nostril for a while.

Ah, yes. Father's Day. Rocky night sleeping last night for Linda, who's still struggling with a cough, and for Bacha, who seems to be having a lot of bad dreams. Perhaps she's having what I've heard termed "night terrors." Anyway, she goes back to sleep, but it's often a fitful sleep, and we are on the alert. Tucker slept fine, and I would have if it hadn't been for being on guard duty. I also ended up in the bedroom with Tucker after putting Bacha on the sofa in the living room (Linda was on the floor), but slept east-west across the bed instead of north-south, which wasn't a problem except that all my dreams were sideways. ?

But morning was very sweet. I was awakened with both my kids climbing on top of me. This rare indeed for Bacha, and even more rare to see the two of them "sharing" me in this way. Blissful, it was.

The restaurant was fun, and included a long spell of Tucker, Mia, and Lilly (she's 2) all gettin' down to some Russian hip-hop. Damn -- I knew I should have brought the video camera!. During breakfast there, we were invited to watch "Jungle Story" at a local cinema, at 3 PM. So for Linda and me, it was decision time, since this would mean no naps. Tucker, we knew, could go without a nap, though he would likely get temperamental. Bacha was virgin territory to us in this regard. So we went to the Tsum store to kill time (shop). Most of the time, I hung out outside with Chris and all the other Kazakh men (it seemed), and one child (tag-teaming for either Tucker or Bacha). Ice cream helped calm the wild beasts. Inna is apparently a wonderful shopper -- which meant Chris and I had some quality time together.

The movie was lots of fun. All in Russian, of course, so I could exactly tell what was going on all the time. Even the songs were translated, which I was thankful for. A true international production. Tucker is very sensitive to "scary parts" in movies, and hid in my shoulders almost any time the big Tiger (was his name "Sultan"?) came on. It's very cute. He's particularly sensitive, it seems, to scary soundtracks, and they had the soundtrack turned up really loud. This seems to be a trend, as they did the same at the childrens' play (Alladin) that we saw a while ago.

After the play, we went home, and Linda tried to occupy the kids with "Shrek" on DVD while I ran to the green market to buy dinner. I'm getting pretty good at finding my favorite spots now, so it didn't take long to buy all the fixins for what I'll call "Salad Bachabye" -- my attempted replica of the salad that Bacha devoured at the Shashlyk place the other night. I did a pretty good job of replicating it, I think, but the stars were not aligned correctly and Bacha didn't eat much. Really, she almost fell asleep at the table.

So Linda put her to bed, then came and got Tucker. Shortly thereafter she staggered out and passed out on the couch in front of me.

I'd like to wish my own Happy Father's Day to all the papas out there. As a tribute to all the work that goes into being a good dad, I'd like to offer this personal list of personal fatherly goals, in the form of advice I say to myself in the mirror. A couple are particular to my situation.

- Learn to speak Russian well, and German fluently -- just because.
- To be an adult is, among other things, to handle your money well. So keep practicing.
- Anybody can be a good listener when it's easy. It counts most when it's hard.
- The word "no" is limited in supply and effect, so don't waste it.
- Whether positive or negative, mean what you say and say what you mean.
- Kids don't miss ANYTHING.
- Realize that you can do some things "with" your children, and do some things "for" them. (Thanks, Dad).
- Never forget that your kids will be out of the house in 15 years, but your wife will still be with you. (Thanks, Mom).

I think I'll post a few pictures of today's adventures now...

Saturday, June 18, 2005

Happy Father's Day!

To Mike and all the other daddies out there. Thank
you for all the work you do and the love and kindness
you show to your children. May this be a special day
for you. Tucker, Mia and I love you very much

linda

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Short Mia Movie

Hiya. I just posted a very short movie, made up of a few still shots that Linda took this morning. Just kinda fun.

BTW, we never did hook up with the Loucas at the Ferris wheel today -- their daughter is sick and they couldn't leave. :-(

Playtime


Playtime
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
I've mentioned before that there's a set of play-things in the main park nearby that the kids like to romp around in (and on). Here's a shot of Tucker playing "Spiderman". He's literally singing the Spiderman theme song, and shooting webs before he swings. Tuckerman, Tuckerman, does whatever a Tucker can...

Small things

2:21 PM -- Mike here

All is quiet in the other room, except for an occasional "quiet!" command coming from the floor where Linda is lying, and a chorus of "somewhere over the rainbow" interrupted by her coughs. Naptime may just not be happenin' today, as we have to leave at 3:30 to meet up with the Louca family at the Ferris wheel today.

Bacha and Tucker seem to have a pretty competitive relationship these days, for the most part. Oh sure, Tucker spontaneously says "I love Bacha," and has been seen to protect her from everyone including Linda and me, but overall they both spend a lot of energy keeping an eye on the other to make sure that they get their fair share of whatever the other is getting. And God forbid somebody tries to take something of the other's -- however a 3-year-old defines ownership, that is. I can now officially add "referee" to my list of qualifications.

Today, Tucker had a long time-out when he broke the "never hurt Mama" rule. Something she said upset him, and he purposely scratched her. I came to Linda's rescue on my shining white horse and sat Tucker down in the time-our chair, giving him one simple key to regain his freedom -- to answer the question: "what's the rule about hitting Mama?"

His answer was "no" for what must have gone on for 30 minutes, as I patiently and quietly sat in the chair across from him and read "Life of Pi." I happened to be reading a passage where the main character's father was teaching him a difficult lesson, so it gave me strength. Besides, we happened to have lots of time, and I was enjoying my book. After a while, I made it easier and easier for him -- telling him what the rule was, for instance (the rule is "don't hurt Mama"), and asking him what it was. I wanted to hear him say it. It finally got to the point where he clearly got the message, but just wouldn't knuckle under and say the words to me. So I let him get up on the condition that he apologized to Linda and told HER the rule. That worked.

Then we went shopping, and the first thing Tucker said to me as we left the building was "Papa, I love you."

Anyway, I fear that having what are essentially twins is going to be a long power struggle between them -- not to mention us. Balancing their individuality and their identity as a pair is going to be interesting. They each need things of their own, and they're just necessarily going to have to learn to share. They're going to have to learn when to "work it out" on their own -- without killing each other -- and when to ask for mediation/arbitration (without being a tattle-tale). If it comes to a knock-down, drag-out fight between them, I'm not sure who'd come out the winner, or at what cost to the loser. Tucker is sweeter, but as brutal as any 4-year-old can be (he turns 4 on the 28th). Bacha is tough and headstrong, but just plain smaller. One of these days there will be a no-holds-barred fight before we get a chance to jump in, and Linda and I will be left to pick up the pieces.

They had a verbal argument at the dinner table today about who-knows-what. Bacha shouted a stream of gibberish at Tucker, and he shouted his version of the same gibberish back at her. This went on for a while, 'till it ended up with a classic ping-pong of "nyet! no! nyet! no!...", finally being resolved by Bacha's emphatic "DA!" as she resumed eating. I guess she told him! Linda and I just watched.

We had planned to go to a children's performance today, but apparently the actors left. <shrug> Happens, I guess.

I crave small, mundane, "normal" things... A large tumbler with half a dozen large ice cube, full to the top with 24 ounces of diet Pepsi... Light switches that are largely out of the reach of a 3-year-old, and INSIDE the bathroom (!)... A peanut butter and jelly sandwich, made the way I like it... NPR... Crickets...

For father's day tomorrow, we're going to meet friends at a nearby "childrens' restaurant." They have such things here, and I'm interested to see what it means.

2000 tenge and toilet paper

Linda Here...

I took Bacha out yesterday afternoon to buy toilet
paper etc. Rebecca wrote and had suggested that maybe
some time splitting up the kids would feel good and it
did. Thank you.

Bacha and I ventured over to the honey store as we
call it. It was the first place Mike found honey.
When you eat the honey here, all local, you get quite
a rush. It reminds us of the shots of grass we used
to get at Jamba Juice in San Francisco. Yes, for all
of you from other parts of the country, in California
besides drinking coffee you can get shots of wheat
grass for a quick buzz.

It was a quiet uneventful walk to the store. It took
about 10 minutes. There were taxis and mud puddles to
maneuver around. Bacha held my hand the whole walk
without incident. She wanted to be let loose when we
got inside the store but I wouldn't let her. I think
she and I have come to an understanding. I have taken
the Baby House suggestion to heart and I am being
really strict with Bacha, at least on two counts. She
knows when she has to hold my hand and she also knows
that the interior of her nose is mine.

I bought shampoo and Q-tips at the first booth. The
lady saw me coming and responded immediately to my
pointing. She said the amount but I could tell she
didn't expect me to know what she was saying. As she
said the numbers she punched them into the calculator
and turned it towards me. Of course, this was the
smart thing to do. I pull out a 2000 tenge note and
got my 1640 change back.

I asked Mike for 2000 tenge before we left. Mike
carries all the money and I track it. We negotiated
this system and it seems to work. Although this might
be one reason why I haven't ventured out much on my
own. Mike has been the primary hunter and I the
primary caregiver.

I wanted to bring back a little something for Tucker
on this trip so I found him some socks with soccer
balls on it at the next booth. Bacha and I walked
once around after that. The building houses booths in
a U shape with aisles made of one booth in the middle
as we found most of the buildings do. There were
about 15 booths in this building, 3 in the middle and
the rest around the perimeter. Each booth has one or
two salesclerks in it.

This seemed like a good day to buy Bacha something
girly. I found a booth that had toiletries and
detergents. I saw that the nail polish was only 80
tenge (about 65 cents) so I had Bacha choose a color.
You can't touch anything. You see everything through
plexiglass. This booth was larger than the others and
had two salesladies. I would say it was about 20' x
6' deep. I gave the woman a 100 tenge coin and got
back my change.

When I go to a store I seem to be compelled to spend
whatever money I am carrying with me. A good reason
for Mike to hold all the money on this trip. As we
were circling the store again I thought it might be
nice to buy Bacha an outfit. I love little girl
clothes but didn't want to buy much before we left as
I was unsure of Mia/Bacha's size. I noticed a booth I
had shopped at the week before for underwear. All the
underwear I had brought from home for Mia was too big.
The woman behind the counter was quite nice and
acknowledged me as I had walked by the first time.

Not all the ladies in the booths are friendly or even
acknowledge a shopper. Some will sit and do cross
word puzzles or keep their backs turned for awhile
while you look at the merchandise. I have noticed
when shopping with Sveta that she would not
necessarily wait for an acknowledgment from the sales
clerk or even wait her or our turn. Sveta would just
shove her way in and speak up leaving everyone else to
wait. The only time I am comfortable doing this is
when we are getting on the planes in-country where we
were told if you are travelling with children to move
ahead. As you board the plane you just make your way
to the front of the line and sit where you want. There
are no assigned seats.

The woman at the underwear/clothing booth was engaging
me so I went to her booth to find Bacha's outfit. I
didn't see anything I liked through the plexiglass so
she looked down at the base of the display and pulled
out a plastic bag with a stack of bellbottom pants in
it. They all had a little bit of glitter and so cute.
I am not really up on the latest fashions, but if two
years ago is any indication these clothes will be in
style in the states next season. They seem to be
ahead here. Must be the European influence. After
several tries with my tape measure we didn't find
anything that was the right size. The saleslady
pushed the display out - it was a wheely thing about
3'x 3'x 3' and we stepped into the booth.

As the saleslady was undressing Bacha to try on the
pants Bacha grabbed the ladies cheeks and starting
squeezing. It startled the woman but she took it in
stride and they both started speaking Russian. It all
sounded very sing/song. Bacha was laughing and the
saleslady seemed delighted. We found pants and a top
that we were happy with. The prices were handwritten
on the tags. Which I just pulled out as I am writing
this. The washing instructions on the pants are in a
strange sort of English. Oh, this is interesting, the
instructions read:

Whshed Derection
1. Do Wash by hand
2. Don't Blench
3. Mid Iron(150 degrees C)
4. Only Dry
5. Don't Reach
6. Only Chlorine

The total came to 1400 tenge, about 12 dollars.
Unfortunately there are no sizes on the garments which
makes it tough to buy for Bacha or anyone else. I
paid the lady and we moved on to another booth.

Next we went back to the toiletries booth and bought a
bar of soap - Camay for 60 tenge. This was to replace
the bar of what I thought might be olive oil soap
bought at the Green Market. The Green Market soap was
only 25 tenge (20 cents). It is plentiful at the
market and unfortunately must be made of leftover
animal parts - we couldn't stomach the smell although
it made some nice lather.

I still had a few tenge left so I stopped off at one
more booth. I thought I would have a little fun as
the sales clerk was young and looked friendly. I
asked her for "large men's black socks please" she
smiled good heartedly, I laughed and I walked over the
the spot where I saw the socks I wanted and pointed.
I said "bolshoy spaciba" meaning large please. She
wrote out 45 whereas the socks she showed me read 39 -
42. I nodded and she pulled out a pair for me. I put
down 120 tenge and we were done. Oh, but I still had
toilet paper to buy - the original impetus for the
trip. The lady at this booth was not very engaging
and ignored me as long as she could. Unfortunately
this was the only booth with toilet paper. The
toiletries booth didn't have any - it is all very
strange. I paid the 190 tenge in my small change that
was left and we were out the door. Bacha was
delighted to carry her bag of goodies and we set off
for home.

bye for now.

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Friday, June 17, 2005

Morning peace, evening fun

11:55 PM - Mike here

The kids went to bed less than an hour ago, as we had a late night "out on the town." A few days ago, Chris (of another adopting couple) met a man name So Jun (not sure I'm spelling that right). Chris was out and about, and suddenly heard this Kazakh man speaking flawless English to Ena, his interpreter. Turns out that So Jun is an American of Korean descent who came to Kazakhstan two years ago on a peace corps mission. So they arranged to meet for dinner, and invited the rest of us out. So there we were tonight on a street-corner seat, eating awesome Shashlyk and drinking good beer, talking about everything. There were nine of us altogether, including three children.

Tucker and Nastya (Chris' daughter) had a lot of fun running around in circles (Nastya is ten), and Mia ate salad and flirted with anyone who would engage. All in all, we had a great time. We really needed a night out.

OK, so we weren't keeping a "low profile" tonight. But there's only so much "low profiling" one can do before going postal. We'll probably meet So Jun again at his favorite restaurant in a few days. A friend of his owns the place.

This morning, we enlisted the help of Sveta and Alexander to take us for a drive. The best part of the drive was when we visited a little town made up of hundreds... no, probably thousands of dachas. These are little summer houses. Shacks, really -- most of them. But this little village was out in the country a bit -- maybe 20 minutes outside city limits -- and I can still feel the involuntary deep breaths I took just walking around in the peace and quiet.

We were hoping to accompany Chris, Nastya, and Ena to a lake nearby for an overnight getaway, but we're probably going to decline after being advised against it by Sveta. I guess there's a slim chance that someone could ask us for papers, and since the paperwork on Bacha hasn't been finalized yet, we could get the Director of the baby house in trouble. I don't understand it, but we're unlikely to take the chance at this point.

Linda is sounding worse. She's had a nagging shallow cough for several days now, and tonight's little excursion to the cafe didn't do her any good, as it was a bit chilly. Even the blankets provided by the restaurant didn't completely help. She's also wrestling with a nagging hip problem which she's had before. I keep thinking that we should try and enlist Onisis Louca's help -- he's a chiropractor. At the least, Linda's going to try and get a thorough massage soon.

The Road Less Traveled


The Road Less Traveled
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
We visited a small village outside of Kokshetau, comprised exclusively of "Dachas" -- small summer homes. We saw almost nobody there, but clearly people visit frequently because the gardens are well-kept. It was a much-needed respite from the chaos of the city.

Visit to a Mosque


Visit to a Mosque
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
One of the things we visited today on our drive around Kokshetau was a small Mosque. Even at the most crowded times, maybe twenty or thirty people come here. Usually only two or three.

You know you're a long way from home when...

...you see this on your television screen.

Thursday, June 16, 2005

Windows


Windows
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Kokshetau seems to be made up of huge apartment complexes and small houses. The apartments complexes have a very Soviet-Era feel to them: stark, simple, large. The little houses are on the outskirts of the city, and there are often gardens and pens for animals. During this morning's walk, I heard a rooster crowing just behind this house, and I could smell cattle. This little house was one of the nicer ones.

Sweeping


Sweeping
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
A very common sight around here is to see people sweeping the sidewalk -- especially in the morning. Even the sound is telltale. And they all use the kind of broom that Americans only usually see witches riding (or Harry Potter). They're made out of tree branches tied together onto a handle.

Tucker at Breakfast


Tucker at Breakfast
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Tucker was the first to join me at breakfast this morning -- very rare, indeed. He usually sleeps like a teenager.

Mia Blows Bubbles


Mia Blows Bubbles
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
Mia was fascinated by the bubbles. It seems that most 3-year-olds are.

Running in the square


Running in the square
Originally uploaded by mmfranke.
One of our regular stops along our walks is one particular square, with a fountain, the statue of Avla Khan, and a little stage. It's funny. We look for things to entertain the kids, and we find that the highlight of their day can be a walk on a wall, or running up and down a ramp. Doesn't take much sometimes.

The Rest Of The Story...

7:50 PM -- Mike here.

Our morning excursion was, well, difficult (read Linda's last post). But more on that later. We just got back from our afternoon excursion, which was a quite long stroller trip to the lake from our apartment. Sveta told us at one point that it was straight down the main road we're on (I think it's called Gorky). Sure enough, it was there, although quite a "stroll". There ended up being several groups of kids swimming in the lake when we got there. Even a little beach -- actually quite pretty. On the way, we passed some sort of rockpile of a monument, which we let the kids climb on on the way back. There were lots of big apartment buildings -- the old Soviet-looking kind similar tot he one we're in now. There was one very interesting compound that looks like a school of some sort. Very new construction made to resemble a castle, with a gate all the way around. We called the place the Hogwarts School of Magic and Wizardry, and I told Tucker that we'd found the long way to get there (most people have to run headlong into the wall between the Shashlyk man and the egg ladies at the green market). Also, there was one building/house that either had some sort of official purpose, or it was the house of somebody very important. It was right on the lake, and had a big (like 10-feet-tall) fence made of steel, and security guards outside.

We stopped by the market on the way home (actually well out of the way of home) to get dinner, and just finished. Now, I'm struggling with pretty bad allergy symptoms -- the worst so far on the trip. Didn't take my Claritin this morning, though I often don't need it. Oh, well.

Oh, and the water is out again, so no bath for the kids tonight.

This morning, by the way, I actually did get up early (even after staying up very late to post movies). OK, so it was Bacha's crying that woke me up. It happens a lot. I guess she had a bad dream or something, or maybe she just wakes up disoriented. Anyway, I got up early enough to take a really long walk, all by myself. And I do mean alone -- the whole town is deserted at 6 AM. I even went to where the green market is, and I really had to convince myself I was in the right place, it looked so different. Spooky. I ended up all the way on the other side of town, past the Zhekebatyr Hotel that we stayed at two years ago. I was actually hoping for some good video footage of somebody walking their cow along city streets, which is one thing I remember from our last trip. No luck. Anyway, I came back to the house in a really great mood. The rest of the family was still sleeping, and I still had time to stretch and then prepare breakfast.

OK, OK, so now regarding this morning's excursion... I believe Linda said I was "almost miserable" or something. Well, OK, I deserved that. In fact, she was being kind. By the time we actually left for our morning walk (90 minutes after we said "OK, time to go"), some of my morning mood had worn off and I was indeed quite testy. Then, BOTH kids were being uncooperative and I did, as Linda said, start to "lose it."

However... <ahem> I just want to say that there is another side to the "bubble bottle" story (and my "ill-timed" lesson). Not worth dwelling on it here, of course. In the end, we went to the park, and both kids had fun climbing and blowing bubbles. For the record, Tucker ultimately did learn a lesson about sharing when his bottle ran out of soap solution and Mia's was still going strong. "She's not sharing!" he said. Awwwww...

Also, Linda mentioned that she has her moments. Don't we all. It is, for instance, not I that has been walking a fine line between composure and insanity over Bacha's disgusting snot-eating habit. Also, I wasn't the one who, at the end of this morning's excursion (the very same), made a pleading, sniveling Bacha find her own way out of an ankle-deep mud puddle after she insisted on walking into it. <insert evil snicker here>

OK, OK, enough already. I should say that over the years it has been part of Linda's job to keep me from taking life too seriously, as is my tendency. Usually she does this by getting me to laugh at myself, and today was no exception.

Breathe. Eight more days 'till we leave for Almaty. That's about 16 more little excursions. :-) Of course, then my day actually gets tougher in a lot of ways because Linda might be working full time, leaving me to play Mr. Mom for the two beasties until school starts.

Pitiful crying coming from the bathroom now, as Bacha is beside herself over the lack of water. Both she and Tucker love bathtime, but Bacha lives for it. Ha ha hahhahah. Laughter now, as Linda fills the tub with COLD water (not sure why there's cold water when there's not water at all). Apparently it was not OK to just have a sponge bath. It's freezing cold, and Bacha is screaming with delight every time Tucker dumps a little thimbleful of cold water on her back...

...some time later, there are tears again as Bacha is pulled, literally kicking and screaming, from the tub. She cheers up when she gets a chance to say hello to Omi and Opi (grandma and grandpa on my side), who happen to be on the telephone. Preevyet! Kak dyela? Kak dyela? She says over and over again... (Hi! How are you?)

9:43 PM... The kids are finally going to sleep. Late night. They're wired, and we're fried. It's still very much light outside, by the way.

Notes and today so far...

Karen, the name of the book is "Mama Loves You" by
Caroline Stutson it is also nicely illustrated by John
Segal. It is published by Scholastic. It was sent
to us by Mike's cousin Bob and his wife who live in
NJ. They have two daughters and were happy to share
some things their girls outgrew. It is really a very
cute book and a good travel size.

RoseMary, no I am afraid that not many Kazak families
adopt the children here. For some reason it is just
not done. I gathered that it is either not well
publicized about the baby houses or the people here
just really don't want to believe that people would
abandon their children. The children are not being
adopted by locals, but there are people here that know
that foreigners are adopting these children and don't
want them to.

Today so far...

My husband is bordering on miserable. It was hard to
get out of the apartment today lots of potty time and
pushing, more of "she's touching me" etc., but we
finally left for a short walk as we wanted to get back
early. It was like herding cats. Tucker wanted to go
one way, Bacha wasn't moving, Mike was ready to head
back to the apartment after 5 minutes. I kept us
going and spied little plastic bottles in a booth. I
read the bottles and saw the word "bubbles". Mike was
so pissy he just kept naysaying everything and was
sure these weren't really bubbles. I was ready to
swat him one. Sure enough he opened the container and
it was bubbles. Cost 25 tenge. I thought great this
is it, but Mike opened the container up and asked them
to share, yes he was really pushing it today. All
Hell broke loose in front of the booth. The three
ladies inside were giggling. I started laughing as
Mike was instructing Tucker on this very important but
I dare say, ill timed lesson of sharing. Mike was
sure this was a good time. Mike finally broke down
and bought one more bubbles container. The ladies had
it ready for him. Ahhh... how are we going to last
one more+ week. As it turns out we are leaving
Kokshetau on the 24th instead of the 22nd.

Mike is taking a nap now, maybe he will be in a better
mood when he wakes up. Of course this is not to say
that I don't have my moments. It just happens to be
Mike's turn to lose it.

Oh well, no nap for Bacha today.


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Tickets Home

Hi. Mike here.

It's been brought to my attention (thanks, Susan) that I haven't been clear about the current status of our plane tickets home. Here's the straight scoop.

We are currently booked on the 29th of June -- all four of us. This is a new development, and required some coordination between Eldo (that's Eldo Miller -- our awesome travel agent with Golden Rule Travel in Kansas), and the KLM agents in Almaty. We have not yet paid for those tickets, however, as this requires that we appear in person, holding documentation about Mia. So we won't be able to actually pay for the tickets until the 22nd (at the earliest), or perhaps as late as the 27th. That's because we think we've always been scheduled to travel to Almaty on the 22nd, but there's some confusion about that, as our interpreter seems to think it's the 24th. We'll find that out today. If it's the 24th, then we might have to wait until as late as the following Monday (the 27th) to seal the deal. But we're told that the tickets are held until we pay for them, so there shouldn't be a problem.

Also, there's one little final detail that needs to happen once we pay for the tickets. This involves having Eldo enter the ticket number into his system in the States. Worst part of this is that there's at least a 12-hour turnaround time on this because of the time difference. Yeah -- Oi.

The back-up plan is that we also have tickets held on July 5th -- same situation.

There you have it. Clear as honey (Myud). Bottom line is that we should be leaving on the 29th, but it's not a done deal yet.

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

Green Market Movies

OK, so what do you do when you have a lot of time on your hands? Post Movies! I just uploaded three more movies (for a total of four today). This last batch is of the infamous green market (also called the bazaar). I made these movies by holding the camera at my side and shooting as we moved, without looking at the viewfinder or anything. So the footage is a little shaky. Also, I had Mia's hand in my other hand.

The "Hardware" movie shows a building where you can get anything having to do with hardware. Just don't aske where the vendors get theirs stuff...

The two "Outdoors" ones show a typical day in the rattier part of the outdoor section. There are other parts, too, and perhaps there will be more movies to come.

Enjoy.

Mama Loves You

Hey... new movie just in... very cute...

Bored

Hiya. Mike here. I don't have much to say today -- Linda pretty much said it all. I will mention that I found today difficult because I'm getting really tired of the routine. So much so that I'm planning on getting up really early tomorrow and taking a walk -- just to break up the routine. I might take some pictures, maybe some movies, or I might try and fulfill my fantasy of coming home with eggs, bacon, and the makings for pancakes. I won't even try to find maple syrup, so I'll get some jam and make the thin style pancakes (they call them bliny) here -- I like those anyway.

Everyone is asleep

Linda Here...

Perhaps this is a good time for me to write. The
household is asleep. Mike on the sofa and the kids in
the bedroom. It is 3:30pm. I sung the kids to sleep
about an hour and a half ago. They were wired after
our walk. Our routine is to wake about 7 or 8am
depending on when they get to bed, we eat and then
leave the house about 10. We return after a walk and
shopping of some sort - today it was for crayons.
Lunch was at about 12 and they went down for a nap
about 1pm.

We had leftovers from the party last night for lunch.
All the food was ordered from the military school.
The pea soup is really nice. Which reminds me, Mike
must have written about the soldier we met the other
day who told us he was studying to be a firemen. He
was thrilled to hear us speak English and told us of
his travels to Arizona, Texas and California. We
still laugh when hear that those men and women are
studying to be firemen. Just how many firemen can
there be in Kazakhstan. There doesn't seem to be that
much to catch fire.

The vegetation here consists of poplar trees (cotton
everywhere including my throat), lilacs (which were in
bloom when we arrived), peony, mustard and I know
there is lily of the valley because Sveta bought some
for us a couple of weeks ago to decorate the
apartment. There are more plants of course, but I
don't know that there is a lot of variety. There are
no large Noble trees as they are thought of in
Spartanburg or much if any ground cover like the kudzu
we all know and love in the south.

We are just a block away from the flower market which
might resemble the flower market in San Francisco -
well no, not really. This is a strip of about 10
stalls on either side of the street. You can buy
roses and carnations they all come wrapped to go in
that specialty plastic foil.

Tucker asked today when we might be coming back to
Kokshetau. He says he really likes it here. I'm
glad. Today at the Tsum a woman stopped me after
hearing me speak English. She pointed to Tucker and
Bacha and asked in very broken English if they were
kazak. I told her yes. We were able to tell that she
wanted to use the phone to call a journalist to talk
to us. I told her we were tourists but I could tell
she thought there was more to our story. Mike said
she wanted our phone number or our address here. She
started to follow us as we were leaving the building.
We were not interested in being interviewed as that
would really detract from our "low profile" status, so
we said goodbye. She understood and left. I would
love to let people in Kazakhstan know that the
children being adopted in the U.S. are doing well, but
as we understand it, not everyone in KZ believes that
having Americans adopt the children here is a good
idea. It is all a bit complicated and very political
- I will leave it at that.

Tucker is liking Bacha more today than yesterday. We
had such a nice break last night when we had our
adoption party. Tucker and Bacha got a break from us
and each other. We are all a bit more at ease.
Although I still heard, in a very whiny voice, "mama
she's touching me" during naptime today.

Bacha knows the words art box now. We bought each of
them a box for art supplies yesterday. Bacha loves to
use her scissors and Tucker is doing lots of coloring.
Bacha also knows garbage and will happily throw
anything away for me. She also likes to repeat the
word "no" as she hears it from us a lot. We try to do
lots of redirecting, but sometimes you just have to
say NO.

We are here in Kokshetau one more week, but really we
would be happy to leave tomorrow. Of course if I
carry all this yarn back we will have to pay extra
baggage on our flight from Kokshetau. Though we
probably will anyhow. I don't have the driving trip
back and forth to Tchuchinsk anymore to crochet so I
am not making so much progress.

My respiratory issue seems to be allergies as the
runny nose, coughing or sore throat is intermittent.
This dry cough is driving me crazy as it catches me
off guard in the middle of a sentence. I always have
to have water handy. I still can't believe I have
allergies as I grew up without them. It has been
about 7 years now and they seem to get worse every
year. I have to remember to carry and drink water.

I'd like to answer Sherry's question about the status
of women in Kazakhstan, but I don't feel like I have
been gathering much info. I asked one of the
interpreters and she said women have a lot of power
here. I asked another interpreter and she said women
have no power here - that this is a man's country. I
could use some help with more specific questions. I
have asked some questions but they can get lost in
translation. One question was "can women have any
career here". The answer was yes.

Women can hold political office. We had a female
judge. The prosecuter for Tucker's court was a woman.
One of the driver's wife is a dentist. All the staff
including the pediatricians at the Baby House are all
women. The booths at the bazaar are staffed with both
men and women. The men work the auto, plumbing and
building areas and the rest of the areas are mixed
mostly women though. We are seeing more women drivers
this trip. Women can drive here in Kokshetau but I
would think it might be more difficult for women to
jump in to the drivers seat given the speed, no lines
in the road, potholes etc. You really have to be
ready to change a tire, as or driver this and last
time had to, at any time. There are more women
driving in Almaty as there were two years ago. I
would say that the roads are better there and more
road services are probably available.

Women carry themselves well here - they would have to
have excellent posture to walk in the uneven muddy
roads in the pointy toed spiked heels that most seem
to wear. Older women don't wear spiked heels but they
still have on fashionable wedges. The women come
across as very intelligent and capable. It is funny
when I think back on the Pimsler Russian CDs I was
listening to. We were laughing the other night that
the men on the CD had these deep voices and the women
sounded quite meek. The CDs seemed to be made for
American businessmen wanting to meet Russian women
with translated phrases such as "would you like to
come to my place for a beer". Needless to say that
the CDs were not all that helpful for learning the
Russian that we use. Of course the tapes were made
for travel to Russia which is quite different than
Kazakhstan.

Another part of Sherry's question was about religion.
Our interpreter Sveta told us that all religions are
practiced here. I have not seen any opening garbed
women Muslims although the literature tells us that
the country is 40% Muslim. There is a Catholic church
here. The priest is from Poland. I visited the church
last time we were here. It is a new church and quite
nice. It is made in the log cabin style that we have
seen in a few places. There is a museum going up on
our street in this style it would remind you of a home
on Lake Tahoe in California.

Though the priest is Polish at the Catholic church
most of the faces we see here are Russian or Kazak.
Sveta told us that there are many Germans living in
Tchuchinsk. The Russians sent lots of people to
Kazakhstan during World War II. We really only saw
the farmers in Tchuchinsk and they looked Kazak or
maybe Russian.

I noticed last night on television some Kazak
programming. It was an MTV like format with a world
class Kazak wrestler singing a song about Kazak
champions. The video showed the athletes competing in
their sports - I have to admit I saw no women there.
It was nice to see the Kazak people on television as
the other programming I have seen has all been
Russian. We have about 8 channels I flip through.
There are lots of violent movies on including many
American movies. Hostage with Bruce Willis was on the
other day, also Total Recall, Terminator and some
really bad stuff, meaning the B movies that seem to
just go video in the U.S. All these movies have
Russian translations on top of the English soundtrack
every once in awhile you can hear bits of English. The
Russian border is about 3 hours north of here. It
would be so nice to take a side trip up there, but
Bacha doesn't have a passport till we leave Kokshetau
or maybe not even till we get to Almaty - I don't
remember. Our coordinator takes care of that for us.

Well, I have been writing for over an hour and Mike
just woke up and turned on the TV. he is probably
going to look for soccer. No, it is Xena. We don't
normally have the TV on at this time, so who knows
what is on. Oh, did Mike mention in his blogging that
there is quite a bit of Russian Reality TV. You can't
miss the format in any language.

Bye for now.
Linda

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